Replace the seal when it is torn, hardened or stained through the rubber. Clean it when the marks wipe off and the rubber is still soft. A leak at the door does not always mean the seal, so check the signs before you order parts.
Inspect It
- Pull back the folds all the way around the opening.
- Look for small tears, especially at the bottom, where socks and wire hooks catch.
- Press the rubber. If it feels stiff or cracked, it has aged.
- Check the drain holes in the lower fold for lint.
Signs It Is the Seal
- Water along the bottom of the door during the wash.
- Visible splits or a flattened section of rubber.
- Dark staining that stays after cleaning.
Signs It May Not Be
Water on the floor after the cycle, not during it, can come from the drain hose, the pump or the detergent drawer overflowing. Too much detergent makes extra foam that finds its way out at the door. A door hanging out of square can also leak, and that comes from hinges or the latch rather than the seal.
Repair or Replace the Washer
A new seal on a washer that otherwise works well is a sensible repair, even at 15 years. If the drum bearing is also noisy or the cabinet is rusting, we tell you plainly when the machine is no longer worth the cost.
Our washer repair page explains what else we check.
Before you order a seal yourself, bring the model details to us. Seals differ between washer generations, and a close match that is slightly off will leak again within weeks. We confirm the right part, fit it correctly and cover the work with our 30-day workmanship warranty.
To have the seal inspected, call us or use the online form, and we will confirm a three-hour arrival window.